Main

Thursday 13th June

The day started with a uninspired McDonald’s, we needed to use the internet to sort out bits and pieces at home. We also decided to book another motel for tonight as the next campsite on our map was over 50 miles away, to much in these hills.

We passed a treading post outlet in a place called fanning it claimed to have the worlds largest rocking chair.42 feet tall and 20 feet wide.

And it sells over 100 different popcorn flavours countless different fudge flavours. It also carries lots of Route 66 gifts. An enjoyable break in the day.

Were now passing vineyards and passing st James winery opened in 1970, and is now Missouri’s largest. It’s won many awards. It temptingly offers free tastings but neither one of us are big wine drinkers, we wouldn’t be able to tell if its good.

We are staying in Rolla tonight only 24 miles done today. Just outside of Rolla, we stopped for a water break. A guy called us over to where he was working and gave us both a cold bottle of water each. He would love to travel himself but as yet has never left America. I thanked him for the drinks and told him that he was still young enough to go and he should do it. So far we are having a very positive experience and are overwhelmed by people’s generosity towards us. Amazing.

Opposite our motel is a steak and shake family restaurant. We’ve not seen one before, it looked popular judging by the car park so we gave it a try.

“Steak ‘n Shake, a classic American brand, was founded in 1934 in Normal, Illinois by Gus Belt who pioneered the concept of premium burgers and milk shakes. For over 85 years, the company’s name has been symbolic of its heritage. The word “steak” stood for steakburger. The term “shake” stood for hand-dipped milkshakes. Gus was determined to serve his customers the finest burgers and shakes in the business. Today, Steak ‘n Shake remains the “better burger” leader, serving premium 100% beef steakburgers, hand-dipped milkshakes, and thin crispy fries. Steakburgers are made without preservatives or artificial ingredients, topped with fresh produce, and always hand-crafted to order.”

As you can imagine the menu was limited for vegetarians but that’s normal for over here. I had a cheese toastie and thin crispy fries but the selling point for me was the selection of milk shakes.heaven. I chose the Reece’s chocolate peanut butter made with ice cream a cool 900 calories not that I’m counting. Delicious!

Wednesday 12th June

After visiting the caverns, we relaxed at the campsite river it probably was the best location site so far. No electricity, empty just us and nature. Very peaceful.

We reluctantly got up early to climb the mega hill straight out of the campsite and headed for our breakfast at a Denny’s in nearby Sullivan.

A short ride today. We want to keep the distance down all the time it’s hilly. At one point we were so close to the interstate with no crash barriers between us it was a bit unnerving, but most of the time we were following a empty road past more deserted buildings. Or run down looking attractions from years ago.

All along the route every town we go to all have water towers that are a welcome site, you can see them from a far it gives us a good idea of how much further we have to go. Even if we are not going to stay in the town.

So I got to wondering if they were still in use. Apparently they are  In many towns, the local water works couldn’t function without them.  It gets its water from a local reservoir/lake. The town has a pump house at the reservoir which takes in the water and pushes it through the system.  It gets filtered for sediment, and treated to kill bacteria, resulting in a safe supply of drinking water for the town.  But the pumps have a limited capacity, and as with most towns, they were chosen to accommodate the community’s average water demands.  There are times when that demand exceeds the capacity of the pumps to push water through the system.

Almost every morning, any given small town experiences a period of “peak water demand” that exceeds the pumps’ ability to meet.  People are taking showers, brushing their teeth, flushing their toilets…you know your morning routine.  During those times, the water towers kick in and supplement the pumps’ ability to provide water, and they do so using the gravitational pressure of their stored water.  At night, when demand shuts off, they refill themselves.  Thus, the water inside them is constantly being recirculated. Thank you Wikipedia!

Our stop tonight is going to be a motel in Cuba.We can’t find a campsite near enough and the weather has changed it’s now rain storms.

Cuba is full of colourful murals giving it the nickname Route 66 mural city.

We are staying in the wagon Wheel motel built 1935 when the nation was barely out of the depression as a cafe and service station. After ww2 it was purchased by John Mathis who converted it into a motel. John designed the famous Wagon Wheel Neon Sign at his kitchen table changing the name to Wagon Wheel Motel. It is now the oldest continuously operated motel on Route 66. Billy Connolly and Henry Cole both have stayed here and featured it in their travel shows.

Tuesday 11th June

After yesterday discovering how hilly Missouri is we decided not to try to do to many miles in a day. We wanted to visit Meramec Caverns these were only 38 miles from our campsite and there was a campsite at the caverns. Easy decision we would head there.

Feeling more refreshed and well fed, breakfast at st Clair in a family diner back on omelettes. We tackled the hills. Now that we’re out of the city they seem easier and it’s a nice change from the dead flat cornfields of Illinois.

On Route we pass through many closedown businesses and motels all casualties of the interstate by passing towns. I’m sure we will be seeing entire ghost towns soon.

The wild life has changed also we’re now seeing Armadillo unfortunately not a live one yet. And a tortoise casually walked in front of us.

After a few climbs and awesome long downhills (who needs a roller coaster) we arrived at the caverns. Apparently it was used by Jessie James as a hide out. We did the cave tour and like everything touristy it was expensive but I have to say that they are very impressive and I’m glad that we did it.

The campsite is right there next to the caverns so after the tour tent up, shower and back to the caverns for food in their restaurant no more cycling for me today.

Monday 10th June

Well to use one of my husbands sayings what a ball ache of a day. As usual a early start was in order, but we decided to have breakfast 1st as it should be cheaper out of the city. The only place open nearby was a fast food place not even sure what it was called. It was revolting I had what can only be described as a scone made with the entire contents of a salt shaker,filled with plastic pretending to be cheese and something that was supposed to be eggs. Even the cola tasted like cleaning chemicals, we struggled to eat what we could not nice.

Today we were going to cross the Mississippi River and enter our next state Missouri. One of the highlights of the trip being the bridge of chains. It’s a pedestrian and cycle only bridge. One of the longest in the world 1 mile long. It wasn’t to be. The weather has been so bad here that it’s closed due to flooding. Maybe it will open next week the young soldiers guarding the closed bollards helpfully told us.

Ok then the next bridge that we’re allowed to cycle on is 11 miles down the busy road at lest it’s in the right direction. After a couple of miles we managed to get on to a cycle route. We followed that until it suddenly disappeared under water, more floods.

Finally we got across the Mississippi into St. Louis the story was the same that side. Cycle paths along the river are all under water and roads closed due to flooding.

The landscape has changed now as well. Not only are we in a large busy city, it’s hilly. We stopped at the gateway arch but couldn’t go up it today as they are worried about the state of the foundations,because of all the flooding. They are waiting to do an inspection when the floods subsides.

We push out of the city, passed the town hall this was supposed to be a place of historic interest but by this time I couldn’t be bothered to find out more, just needed to get out of the city! several roadies in their racing skin suits wizzed by me as I was huffing up hills and commented on it being a beautiful day well by this point all I could think was stuff your beautiful day up your beautiful Lycra clad arse! It’s to hot for hills how dare they be having fun!

Sorry St. Louis to be fare it looks a nice place to look around, clean and full of interesting buildings but we have had enough. Traffic, hills, heat and stop go at constant traffic lights. Much prefer country roads.

We met a fellow cycle tourer Bill. He was going the opposite direction nearly finished he’s trip. He did Route 66 but for the last week or so he’s been pushing on doing 100 miles a day as he has missed his wife and wants to get home. My husband doesn’t know how lucky he is to have me doing this with him!

A few mega hills later we check into our campsite in a town called 6 flags. That’s definitely me done for the day they’ve got a pool and it’s hot out side but I somehow can’t be bothered. 60 long hot ball ache miles in total.

Sunday 9th June

Again we had a early start, the weather is so hot but on the good news we’re going to have cooler weather next week. Tent away time to do the 14 miles before breakfast in mt olive. Another truck stop diner. Scrambled eggs,cheese,hash browns and onion in a tortilla wrap followed by a choc chip pancake. Got to keep the energy up!

Following old Route 66 again most of the day. We had a choice of 2 Route 66’s today.

We chose the 1930-1940 route to take us to the pink elephant antique shop at Livingston, home of muffler man 4 ‘Harley Davidson man’

We had a look around the shop, lots of old Interesting bits and pieces, Mike rather fancied a change of bicycle but it was a little bit too expensive.

Just short of the 50 mile mark today we roll into our home for the night a kampground of America In Granite city. They have log cabins with air conditioning and tv. Mike being a spoilt brat couldn’t resist.

After settling in and feeling very hot after we cooled off and relaxed in the pool. The 1st swim of the trip. Most of the pools so far haven’t been open, from now on it’s in full season so hopefully more pools will be ready.

Saturday 8th June

Another early start to the day. We went slightly off Route to go to see a covered bridge sugar creek covered bridge. Built by Thomas Black in 1827 closed to traffic in 1984 one of only 5 historic covered bridges in Illinois and is The oldest of all the remaining bridges.

We move on for breakfast a 20 mile ride into Divernon. A truck stop on the frontage road Interstate 55, the frontage road was Route 66 and we followed that pretty much the rest of the day off and on in between swapping onto country roads, crisscrossing railway tracks.

When nature calls sometimes you just gotta go, interesting graffiti

Cooler temperatures today with the odd tailwind made it a good easy cycle ride it also helps that it’s flat, you can see for miles across corn fields. 57 miles today taking our total over 1500 miles into the trip.

Our resting place today is a campsite just passed Litchfield. We stopped for our tea in a old 50s diner Ariston cafe supposedly operated since 1924 the longest operating restaurant along the entire stretch of Route 66. Despite alterations the building still maintains its historic character.

Tent up, showered and over 1500 miles completed it’s a Saturday night so treated ourselves to a little tipple. All along the road since Boston we have been seeing fireball miniature bottles, why not give it a try for ourselves.

Cheers.

Friday 7th June

Today we were planning to do 40 miles. We checked the weather forecast and it was going to be another hot day, so a early start was in order. Packed and ready for 6:30 am of we cycle we would have breakfast in Elkhart. A nice easy ride on old Route 66 taken us past a sign to tell us it’s the site of pig hip restaurant 1937- 1991 not sure why we needed a sign in the middle of nowhere for that!

Breakfast in Elkhart small town population of 400 and a early settlers cemetery. Only 1 restaurant open. Breakfast was good scrambled eggs and toast it’s a really friendly town if you can judge it by the ladies loo at least your friend can pass the paper!

After breakfast we carry on we had 30 miles more to do and it was getting hot. We check our guide book and couldn’t see anything really worth stopping for so decided to push on to get to the motel early and hopefully we could check in early.

On we go stopping briefly for drinks, suntan lotion and bug spray breaks. We were headed to a motel 6 in Springfield and had to leave Route 66 as that turned into interstate 55. Not a problem following the back roads but it meant that we missed giant man statue number 3 the lauderbach giant 7 miles out of our way.

Other places of interest here include Lincoln’s tomb and a historical town.

We arrived at the motel 12:30 pm and they allowed us to check in early. 45 miles in total today done before the heat and a relaxing afternoon great. The weather still looks hot tomorrow so hopefully we wake up early and get our asses in gear and go.

Thursday 6th June

After a early night and a lie in I felt much better. I’m not sure weather it was the heat or being over 50, but I have to say I was rough. I had a headache and was shaking into the early hours but managed to get some sleep. Apologies to Noha and Julian if I disturbed them in the night with my constant loo trips. When your in someone else’s house it’s difficult to know weather to flush the toilet in the middle of the night!

Anyway I had a little lie in and 8 :00 am Noha and Julian returned from a early morning cycle ride. They had done 25 miles before I even got out of bed! They are in training for a cycle tour of Germany on a tandem in a couple of weeks.

We joined them for breakfast, I had fruit and yogurt delicious and said our good byes.

After yesterday we had decided to have a easy day today only 30 miles to a campsite. I nice easy flat ride still following Route 66 lots of down hills to. Bonus.

The 1st tourist attraction funks grove a maple sirup farm yes they spell it with a I. The lady in the shop was lovely, she could see how hot we were so gave us each a bottle of ice cold water. The sirup was delicious so brought a small bottle for the road.

The next attraction on the road was in a small town called Atlanta were they had a giant man holding a hotdog statue. Apparently there are 4 giants on Route 66 he was called Paul Bunyan statue. Number two ticked off.

Next stop Lincoln this is the last for today. There is a campsite here 30 miles done and it’s hot. Lincoln’s attractions are a phone both on top of the town hall, apparently it was blown up there in a tornado back in the 50’s and they left it there, not sure how true that is but a good story. Google says a different story but who am I to argue with the local that told the story.

Lincoln also has a giant statue of abe Lincoln in a wagon. Lincoln is the only town that was named after him whilst he was still alive. The statue boasts to be the biggest of a covered wagon.

Wednesday 5th June

A story off 100’s. It’s 100 degrees and 100 kilometres. Ok I’ve been using miles 60 miles done in the heat and I was suffering. Yesterday was a day off so we did all our washing, in my wisdom the clean top I put on was black. So here I am in the middle of the day with no tree coverage cooking. Mad dogs and English men!

Mike was getting frustrated with me to the point that after 30 miles he was ready to call it a day. I am stubborn and tough I stupidly said that I wanted to carry on. We had a warm showers host for tonight and a promise of a home cooked vegetarian meal that was spurring me on.

A quick McDonald’s break for a cold drink and change of top we set off. Lovely old towns empty roads just hot! We were following old Route 66 must of it was now a cycle path sandwiched between a rail track and a interstate. It’s really cool that cyclists can use Route 66 but cars can’t, loving it

Lunch stop was in Pontiac a lovely town with lots of wall art. And miniature cars

We ended up at our hosts house 7:30pm hot and tired. We had some difficulty finding their home following the gps but we made it.

We were greeted with warm smiles and made to feel at home instantly. Showered and our clothes off our back in the wash. We sit down for a tasty meal, beer and for me a lovely cup of tea. Unfortunately the heat had got to me and I wasn’t feeling to great so after dinner I had a early night. They were both understanding lovely people.

Tuesday 4th June

A day off the bike today, it’s my 50th birthday. We’re staying in the motel another night and just going to relax and explore Dwight. It’s a small town but has restaurants shops and a old Route 66 garage. (Ambler-Becker Texaco gas station, 1932 era.)

We visit the garage and went out for a birthday meal at a local diner

I’m feeling relaxed and recouped ready for more cycling tomorrow. About 60 miles to do as we have a warm showers host.