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Sunday 23rd June

A lovely comfortable night spent at our warm showers hosts house, Becky and Robert’s . We had a delicious home cooked meal in the evening followed by a good nights sleep. All refreshed and ready to go. The weather had other ideas. We lay in bed listening to a big storm outside. We optimistically get our cycle clothes on, all lovely and clean, Becky had washed them for us. Lovely nothing better than nice smelling clothes clean on!

Headed down stairs to the soundtrack of thunder and rain hoping that miraculously during breakfast the storm will pass. A cooked breakfast and a cup of tea later, the storm is still in full swing. Becky and Robert offered for us to stay another night. The storm looks like it is here for a while. Very tempting to take them up on their offer we said we’d give it a hour if that’s ok. A hour later we came to the decision to stay. I don’t mind rain but I really don’t feel comfortable cycling in electrical storms.

We were very well looked after. And in the afternoon we were treated to a car tour of some of the sites that Tulsa had to offer.

Praying hands outside oral Roberts university, Oral Roberts an American charismatic Christian televangelist. One hand is cast from him the other from his son, locked in a prayer.

The golden digger. Dedicated to the men of the petroleum industry who by their vision and daring created a better life for mankind.

Buck Atom space cowboy. A brand new muffler man built by Mark Cline for a great little Route 66 gift shop in a former petrol station.

In the evening we all went out for a meal at a Mexican restaurant. It did us good to relax and enjoy a day off.

Saturday 22nd June

Mm motel breakfasts really aren’t worth getting up for. I guess it’s because we stay in the cheapest ones we can find on route. I passed on the coffee mike said that was a good move judging by his face I’d have to agree with him. And took a long life pre-packaged danish looking thing, washing it down with the water I’d brought the night before from the dollar general store.

35 miles to do today. Heading to Tulsa and a warm showers host for tonight. On the way the only attraction listed is a 70ft concrete blue whale built in the 1970s by the side of a large pond. It was originally used as a outdoor swimming area. No swimming aloud anymore not since the mid 1980’s. It’s now a visitor attraction and wild life haven run by volunteers.

We chatted to Linda one of the volunteers. She is from a native America descended and passionate about the wild life and looking after the planet. A truly beautiful soul and spiritual. We wish her well on her recovery from her cancer. She was back at work volunteering today even though she only had a operation less than a week ago.

I would of loved something like this to play on growing up in the 70’s. You can imagine it in its heyday everyone climbing on it jumping and sliding from it. I definitely would of spent all summer long there.

Just another 15 miles to go. Heading into the city. We hate cities! A few wrong turnings it’s hard to follow maps in the city so many roads close to each other. It’s hot and frustrating but we made it to our hosts house in good time.

Friday 21st June

We left the cheapest campsite site yet. Only $10. It was a small pitch behind a motel. With 1 shower and toilet good job no one else was there. Well until at 10pm when another cycle touring couple arrived. Erin and Jono riding Route 66 to raise money for a mental health charity.

Breakfast in the local diner also the cheapest yet let’s hope that this continues. We have 35 miles to do today, but it’s hot and the wind is against us.

Not many sites on Route today. We visit the Pryor Creek Bridge. 123ft steel truss bridge in use 1926-1932 only open for cyclists and pedestrians.

We also took time out to walk under Route 66 using a restored pedestrian underpass. This has postcard like images painted by artist Kenneth Hollingshead depicting the towns history.

Were staying in a motel in claremore. I think today was the hottest yet and there’s no campsite nearby. It’s very rural so could have put a tent up in a field but definitely needed a shower!

Thursday 20th June

Late start to the day. We’re always reluctant to leave a air conditioned room and head into the heat. Finally got our asses in gear and started cycling. Crossing the state line into Oklahoma and ticking over 2000 miles. We’re over half way now

The first stop today was in small town Commerce. This town boasts to be the home town of Mickey Mantle’s boyhood home a famous baseball player. The town has painted the water tower with his number 7.

More impressive for us as we don’t watch baseball was the dairy king a former gas station that sells cookies shaped like the Route 66 shield, we had to try one.

After topping up our energy levels we headed into Miami, The lady in dairy king had told us about a theatre there that was worth a visit. Coleman theatre built 1929 and opened the same year lovingly restored after it was gifted to the town 1989 by the Coleman family. We were given a free private tour by Barbra she was very passionate and knowledgeable about the theatre.

A nice ride into our campsite in Vinita Oklahoma is definitely flatter than Missouri. We have just over 520 miles in Oklahoma a stark contrast to the 20 miles in Kansas.

Wednesday 19th June

What a night. No sleep for us. The campsite was lovely but no shelter, we’ve been lucky enough to be able to camp under pavilions if the weather looks iffy but not tonight. We were just relaxing in our tent about 10pm. When it suddenly went really windy. The tent was bending and contorting this way and that. We had to hold the sides as it was concaving in on us. We could hear crashing and banging all around us as furniture was thrown haphazardly in every direction. Worried that the tent would break, or that something heavy would land on us we packed up our things and waited for a opportunity to get the tent down. It wouldn’t be safe to stay. The rain came and it rained and rained. The site flash flooded it was so hard. We had about 5 minutes to grab the tent down and run for cover.

We sat in the office all night the storm passed at 6am. We left at 6:30am to get some miles in between storms. The blue dot in the photo is where we were.

Goodbye to Missouri today. The last part of Route 66 took us for breakfast in small town Web city that made its money from zinc. Nice old town and breakfast in the diner was delicious.

Next we headed to Joplin the last town on Route 66 in Missouri. On the way a gentleman called Sid beckoned us into his house. He had just made a fresh batch of chocolate chip cookies and wanted to show us his origami. He made origami bits and pieces to sell them at markets and on line. He was keen to show us his Route 66 creations and gave me a flower and Mike a lucky camel. Thank you.

On the state line there is a salon Hogs and hot rods. In Kansas prohibition didn’t end until 1948. Because of that, the state line bar was the first and last place to wet your whistle.

Into Kansas over a viaduct which lead us into Galena. The first thing that grabbed our attention was a rather creepy house which gave us both the chills. Galenas murder bordello. Constructed in 1890 as a brothel for the mining company workers. Nancy stefflebeck and her sons killed clients of the bordello, taking all their money and dumped their bodies in nearby mine shafts. It’s believed that they killed over 30 victims. Although they were only convicted of 1 murder a miner called Frank Galbraith.

You can now take tours of the house and it is reported to be haunted and by the look of the outside I can believe it.

On a brighter note we called into Nelsons old Riverton store, 1925 still looks the same and still operating as it did back then with lots of original features.

We also crossed rainbow curve bridge the last remaining marsh arch bridge on Route 66.

Last stop we’re staying in Baxter Springs, motel tonight we need sleep.

A lovely pharmacy and ice cream shop near the motel. Monarch pharmacy and soda fountain shop. If you’re in the area give their milkshakes a try.

Tuesday 18th June

Early start on the road at 6:30am. Visibility was almost zero. A thick heavy fog engulfed the landscape. Lights on, high viz on. We’re going through a stretch of Route that is often referred to as the ghost stretch it has a high level of abandoned towns left since 66 was rerouted to interstate 44. It’s going to be Erie if the mist stays to long.

Not sure what this is about. A bit spooky in the mist.

In a small town Paris springs we find a replica gas station. Gay parita Sinclair station. The original was opened on this site 1930 by gay and Fred Mason it was named after Fred’s wife tragically gay died 1953 and then in 1955 the whole lot was burnt to the ground. New owner Gary has rebuilt and collected lots of memorabilia. There was a giant Route 66 logo painted on the road outside of the garage. The biggest we’ve seen so far.

So we should of done 50 miles today but we found that the straight road to be too fast and didn’t feel safe. we diverted to lovely country roads through stunning scenery a much nicer ride into Carthage. A lovely RV site with a warm welcome 75 miles done. The lady at the desk gave us cold drinks to refresh and the key to the office door to have somewhere comfortable to sit after hours. It also has the nicest cleanest showers and toilet facilities. Made the long day worth it.

The campsite is next door to Route 66 drive in Theatre one of the last remaining drive ins on Route 66. Unfortunately for us no film showing tonight.

Monday 17th June

After yesterday’s inconvenience of having to cycle a further 15 miles, it left us with a choice of mileage today. Do we stick to plan and go to the KOA the over side of Springfield now only 10 miles away, or do we go to the following campsite that we highlighted for tomorrow 60 miles. There is nothing in between.

We wake up early with every intention to go to the second site it’s cheaper and if nice maybe stay 2 nights to have a rest day. Bugger torrential rain it’s hammering it down. The weather forecast says it will clear over at 10 am. Change of plan 10 miles it is we don’t need to check out until 1. I turn over and go back to sleep. 10:58 am we checked out and cycled 3 miles to a diner for brunch.

So we’re still in Springfield not where Homer Simpson lives. Simpsons creator Matt Groening was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. He commented that the fictional Springfield is based on Springfield, Oregon, located south of Portland. Like the Simpson family, the Groenings lived on Evergreen Terrace.

Springfield that is the Birthplace of Route 66. … It was on April 30, 1926 at the Colonial Hotel via telegram that Springfield businessman John T. Woodruff and Oklahoma businessman Cy Avery first proposed U.S. 66 as the name of the new Chicago-to-Los Angeles highway.

It took us about 30 minutes after our long brunch to cycle to the campsite. We spent the rest of the day relaxing. Catching up on washing and routine bike maintenance. We even relaxed in the pool as like the forecast predicted it turned out nice.

After all that cycling and swimming we had built up a appetite so had a pizza delivered to our site. It must of been a holy pizza if the box was anything to go by.

Very nice it was to. So tomorrow we will do the 50 miles let’s hope the weather will be kind.

Sunday 16th June

A comfortable night spent in the motel with the occasional loud thunder clap disturbing our sleep reinforcing the decision to be inside.

Next to the motel is the rocking chair restaurant offering a breakfast buffet. We don’t have far to cycle to the next campsite so decided on a lie in and late breakfast in the restaurant. As to be expected in a buffet we both over eat that should keep us going for the 20 miles to the campsite.

On the road for 11am silly really it’s now in the heat of the day. We used up the last of our sun cream yesterday so first priority is to buy some more. We’ve got through 2 bottles of factor 50 already, but still have really dodgy tan lines. The 1st shop was in Marshfield.

Whilst we were at the shop we met a cycle tourist from Poland he was cycling Route 66 in 6 weeks and using mainly warm showers. Today was his first day back on the bike after a car had hit him a week ago he was covered in grazes and bruises but nothing broken.

Time to say our good byes we buy a subway to eat at the campsite later as it’s a RV park and has no shops nearby. 9 miles to go and the hills are getting less steep

We made it to the RV park just gone 3. We had checked on their web site and it said that they except tents. It’s a big site, lots of open green spaces, picnic benches and has a swimming pool with new toilet/ shower block perfect. Problem we go to the office and ask for 1 night 2 adults in a small tent only to be told that they didn’t except tents. We said to the girl that we had checked on the website so she checked to and agreed but the owners had decided not to except tents anymore. Darn the next campsite along is a kOA 25 miles away. It was going to be our destination tomorrow! It’s going to take us over 3 hours to get there with these hills. We would of got up early if we knew it was going to be a 50 miler.

Ok we’re going to have to find a cheep motel again. The plaza inn Springfield 15 miles away that will do.

The road took us past a camping shop In Strafford. I still haven’t found a replacement pillow so we go in no luck. I’m going to be pillow less for ever. Why can’t I find a inflatable pillow!

The lad I asked was interested in our trip and came out side to look at our bikes. He finished work in 30 minutes and offered us a lift in his truck to the motel bless him. We declined and luckily the last 10 miles seemed to be flat or even slightly down hill. Arrived at the motel 5:30. Not to bad.

Saturday 15th June

Rudely awakened at 5am by a massive thunder clap. Looking out of our tent into a black sky we decided to pack everything away and put the tent down before the rain came. A mad scramble but we did it and took shelter in the toilet block until the storm passed.

Finally at 8am the rain stopped and we got going. Breakfast today was in a truck stop in hazelgreen. We got speaking to a lovely elderly gentleman. He told us about his life, Olympic athlete, Hollywood star and a published poet. Such an interesting man and when we went to pay our bill we were told that he’d already paid. We didn’t have the chance to thank him because he’d left with out telling us. Bless him.

Another hot hilly day, but the climbs aren’t as bad as they were just lots of them.

We passed the Munger moss motel in Lebanon built in 1946 it had the 1st swimming pool in town. It’s still trading now with themed rooms but the pool is long gone.

This weekend Lebanon has a Route 66 show on with a car show,live bands and stalls. We sat and watched the cars go by for a bit. When the bandit and Buford T Justice pulled up next to us.

We did 50 miles in the heat up and down the hills but the nearest campsite is still just over 10 miles away. We’ve had enough so booked into the only motel around budget inn Conway. The clues in the name but more storms are forecast for tonight. We should stay dry.

Friday 14th June

Leaving Rolla passing it’s Stonehenge monument, which basically is a concrete replica kinda reminds me of Milton Keynes! We headed to a town on our map that was marked as having restaurants for our breakfast 10 miles away called newburg. We should of had breakfast in Rolla as we got to newburg and the whole town was deserted and anything that resembled a diner/restaurant was boarded up.Nothing to do but push on.

Our route took us through beautiful pine forest and hooker cut which is a 90 foot deep cut through rock cut back in 1940 at the time of construction was considered to be a miracle. It remained to be the deepest road cut in America for many years.

Breakfast turned into lunch 25 miles after leaving Rolla. We found a smoke house bar just before devils Elbow bridge. A small bar with a unique feel basically full of local pissheads a bit intimidating to walk in. Dark smokey and loud with woman’s underwear hanging from the ceiling. But we were hungry so bravely ordered food, cash only and sat and soaked up the atmosphere!

Straight out of the bar and across the river using the 1923 devils Elbow truss bridge a excellent example of a concrete open spandrel arch bridge.

Leaving great historic sites and beautiful scenery we rejoin the side of the interstate and the Uranus fudge & Entertainment complex. Yep mikes in childish heaven we spent sometime here and yes we brought some fudge

We met a fellow cycle tourist he was going the opposite direction because apparently were going the wrong way! He was from Montreal doing a USA tour and headed home. We wished him safe travels and moved on to our home for the night.

Home tonight is the lamplight lane RV resort. Just passed Waynesville, deep in the ozarks which is a big hunting, fishing and trapping location and apparently moonshine country.