Friday 24th May

The day started off promising. We had a good breakfast and the weather was warm with no wind. Any doubts that we had yesterday about completing our journey melted away into the landscape. The roads were wide and the hills gentle yes life is good.

We’ve been following the coast of Lake Erie for days now and today we finally turned away from it into a flat rural landscape.

We had a small scattering of rain but managed to shelter under a tree then it brightened up ready for us to cycle to our campsite tonight. 43 nice easy miles completed. Now for food and a good nights sleep.

Thursday 23rd May

We had a comfortable nights sleep in the motel, and managed to get the washing done in their launderette. Food was basic from the nearby petrol station but that was fine.

Time to pack up and go. Opened the front door to a storm, thunder lightning and rain great! It was early so we decided to wait it out.

The good thing about motels is that they have television, settled back down and watched Good morning Vietnam.

Right film finished and the sun is out off we go. Our breakfast break was 5 miles in and yes we had omelette and home fries no need to change.

We followed our cycle route on the map to get through Cleveland it’s a big busy city but the map took us through parks and quiet roads. Past the rock and roll hall of fame and mostly following the coast.

We had a warm showers host for tonight 40 miles today. It turned out to be a hot day with the wind against us again but we made it. Our host is welcoming and our room is lovely.

We spend a pleasant evening talking to Scott our host and his family. And ate a tasty meal that they cooked for us.

In the morning Scott leaves early for work before we get up, but his wife cooked us a breakfast and wished us a safe journey.

Wednesday 22nd May

Not a very exciting day today. We got up, packed away camp and went for a bike ride.

We did roughly 5 miles before a breakfast break in a Arby’s. They made me a salad sandwich with a garlic dressing.

Mike took the opportunity to study the maps, we needed to do about 40 miles. We had contacted a few warm showers host for tonight, as we are in a town with nowhere safe to camp. No one could help. So in Arby’s we booked a motel 6 in a place called Willoughby. today’s total is 43miles.

Tomorrow we have a host so hopefully will stay there.

Tuesday 21st May

The campsite had a pizza restaurant and American themed 50’s diner on site. We opted for the pizza as the diner was just burgers and chips. Mike and I shared the pizza but it was huge so we took out a doggy bag. We drifted off to sleep listening to the waves gently lapping and both slept well.

Breakfast, leftover pizza and take away coffee from the diner that’ll keep the cost down today. We had a late start as we had some phone calls home to make. and my saddle had moved causing pain and discomfort in my lady bits! So that needed attention!

Off we set we have a warm showers host tonight so 50 miles to do. The wind had subsided and the sun was out. We had good cloud cover so a lovely day for a cycle ride.

It was good going and the countryside is pretty, passing through vineyards, orchards and open fields. Always with Lake Erie on our right. We met a fellow cycle tourer going the opposite way. Funny everyone tells us we’re going the wrong way! Her name was Linda, she was from Canada and cycling Chicago to Niagara then on to Quebec. She was also struggling to find decent accommodation and has had to stay in hotels in places. Extra expensive for her because of the exchange rate. A quick coke break in a McDonald’s to check google maps. Then off again

We also had another state crossing we are now in Ohio. They have major road works going on so rough surfaces

We make it to our overnight stop. We are staying on someone’s deck we have a Lake view and running water. There’s a park close with a loo for the morning and bars and restaurants near for food tonight. Not much is open it’s a real seasonal town apparently everything opens tomorrow. It’s a long weekend this week end Memorial Day celebrations. That seems to be the start of the summer over here.

Monday 20th May

Had the best nights sleep so far in a really comfortable bed. They have a lovely house right on the side of Lake Erie, we had use of the garage for our bikes as well as our own room.Amy and Mike made us a tasty omelette with onion, tomatoes and spinach just right for the day ahead.

We thanked them and said our goodbyes and set off again against the wind. There is a choice of two campsites for tonight. The 1st one is 31 miles away and the 2nd is 42 miles. The wind is strong against us so the 1st one it is.In just 5miles we cross the border into a new state, welcome to Pennsylvania.

There’s nothing on route for the 1st 20 miles until we find a petrol station for cake and coffee. It took us three hours to do the 20 it was hard work.

Refreshed we pushed on to do the last bit and arrived at the site 3:30 pm. Not a bad site with a pizza place so pizza for dinner.

Sunday 19th May

Camp site left nice and early we found a diner 5 miles away for our usual breakfast.

We have another campsite ear marked 45 miles away the weather is hot. Lots of factor 50 today.

A day of heat, hills and headwind. What a day, both Mike and I were suffering. We followed the coast of Lake Erie. Nothing really on the road, we grabbed a snack bar from the one and only petrol station and was getting concerned that we were running out of drinking water and had nothing for food tonight. We were 10 miles away from the campsite but it had taken a hour to do the previous 5 miles against the wind. A couple of times the wind was so strong I just couldn’t cycle against it and come to a complete standstill. It was also over 88 degrees. Hard work.

A car in the opposite direction gave us a friendly beep we both waved back. A few seconds later the same car had turned around and came back to us. He pulled next to us and asked us where are we headed, we told him we were going to the next campsite 5 miles up the road. He introduced him self another Mike and said he was a warm showers host. We could stay with him if we want it’s just 100 yards back. We would love to we have definitely had enough for the day.

Mike introduces us to his wife Amy and son Jacob. They make us very welcome, we have a comfortable bed for the night. A en-suite and have had a lovely meal cooked for us. We can stay as long as we like and breakfast has been promised.

Sorry no photos today, to busy fighting with the sun and wind.

Saturday 18th May

Back on the road. We left the hotel early and was over rainbow bridge before 7:30 am . We weren’t looking forward to today’s ride as we had to go through 2 cities, would of been so much nicer in Canada. Oh well just have to get on with it. It was a long day following the bike route. It was full of dead ends and detours, or in some places dug up with no alternative route suggestions. It manly followed the river Erie and was quite industrial.

We did 55 miles and rode into the campground at 4pm. There was no one in the office and the notice on the door stated that office open times were 8-3. Ridiculous who pulls into a camp site before 3pm! Anyway people were camping so the showers and toilets were all open we found a dryish pitch and set up camp. It’s not are fault there’s no one to pay.

We sat eating dinner, just cheese sandwiches and a bag of crisps, when a man come over for a chat. He’s name was Norman and was interested in our cycle ride so invited us over to his pitch later for some beer and sit around the fire. We thanked him and explained that we would have to come empty handed, not a problem see you in a hour.

Showered and a short walk to stretch our legs we end up at norms. He’s already drunk and his mrs has gone to bed, they’ve been drinking all day. He wakes up Mary and lights the fire, we fill awkward but he hands us a beer each and insists that we sit down. He carries on drinking heavily and Mary finally comes out of their camper. She starts to drink again. They were friendly enough and fire was good, Mike and I had 2 beers each but the conversation was getting repetitive. They were drinking heavily and kept forgetting what was said. At this point Norm couldn’t stand up. He told us about his life, it’s not been easy for him. His 1st wife died of cancer after 31 years of marriage. He’s family don’t approve of Mary his 2nd wife because it’s to soon. His 27 year old daughter is a heroine addict that still lives with them but is always in trouble stealing.

Mary’s life wasn’t that much happier. 2 failed marriages and 3 kids. We thanked them for the beer wished them all the best and left. I truly do hope that their life turns around for them.

In the morning packed up early and left without paying.

Friday 17th May

Last day off for a while. We had a nice lay in and late breakfast omelette of course. We walked over rainbow bridge back into America to see the falls from that side.

Everyone bar 1 had told us that the view from Canada was better. Time to make up our own minds. I’m not sure. It’s spectacular both. From the American side you’re looking down, from the Canadian side you’re looking up. Both worth it so why choose.

The rest of the day was spent sorting out maps. We plan tomorrow’s route and total mileage. We had planned to follow the coast of the Erie lake on the Canadian side and cross over using the peace bridge back to the USA, but unfortunately the bridge is closed to cycles due to maintenance so back over rainbow bridge it is. We should do about 50 miles and the weather looks good.

Thursday 16th May

Day off the bike. The plan today is just relax, look around and do the washing. Normally on a cycle tour we can hand wash as we go,but the weather has been against us,so we’ve been left with damp smelly clothes. I’m positive that people were noticing! So a twenty minute walk to a launderette with a bag of washing it is. It felt really weird walking definitely uses different muscles to cycling.

Loaded up the machine nothing else to do but sit and wait. Exciting!

Washing washed and tumble dried. We went for breakfast, there was a all you can eat buffet nearby so we tried that. Food was good and yes we definitely over ate. Neither of us wanted coffee so asked for a jug of tap water, they refused. Said they didn’t serve tap water and we would have to buy bottled water. I thought this was strange I’ve never been refused tap water before. Not sure of the law in Canada but I’m pretty sure that that’s not right especially as they served alcohol. Anyway food was good and cheap so we probably will go back tomorrow with our own tap water!

Time to look around and be tourist

As expected the falls are spectacular. We took a boat to have a closer look. They give out ponchos and you most definitely need them. It’s cold and you get soaked but worth it.

As expected the falls are spectacular. We took a boat to have a closer look. They give out ponchos and you most definitely need them. It’s cold and you get soaked but worth it. We wondered around the Main Street for a bit. It’s like Disney tacky and touristy

So belly’s full, boat ride done we’ve been walking around for ages we decide to go back to the hotel and rest. The falls get illuminated at night so will come out to see later.

The street also comes alive party town.

Wednesday 15th May

Not a very good nights sleep. It’s funny how things play on your mind. So with the thought of if I move I’ll set of alarms and be surrounded by armed police in the middle of the night, or mr jobs worth decided to come back with reinforcements and move us. I ignored the need to pee and led as still as I could till morning.

True to our word we were all packed up and ready to go at 6am, he arrived just as we were cycling away so we waved him goodbye and he reluctantly wished us a good day.

We had at least 60 miles to do 1st stop breakfast. It was to early for the nearest diner so we ended up in a McDonald’s 14 miles up the road. Not ideal but it would have to do. Not knocking McDonald’s but you get more for your money at a diner.Eggmcmuffin and coffee later we get down to some serious miles. The weather is good.

It’s early so roads are empty there’s a slight incline but not too bad. But we have a head wind making going slower. We just keep pushing on it’s funny what rubbish goes through your mind when you’re cycling for over 8 hours, you drive yourself mad with that inner monologue!

Small things that keep us amused along the way. Keep going on. Ignore the discomfort there’s a shower and bed waiting for you. Tomorrow a day off and clean clothes. Onwards push push push shower and clean clothes push push push.

So with a couple of bum breaks and coffee stops along the way 70 miles in total we cross rainbow bridge into Canada. Bliss a couple of days off here to explore niagara and rest.